(Note: This is an older post from my archives, and was last revised in 2007, so some things may be out of date. Please check out my investing guide for more recent material.)

Although I get asked regularly to do so, I’m always wary of making specific investment advice . I’m haven’t passed any securities exams, and I have no financial letters after my name like CFA, CFP, CIC, or ChFC. I’m just a SRDO – Some Random Dude Online.

At the same time, I also appreciate the fact that people like to hear some specific suggestions in order to jumpstart their own research. It’s like being told “go buy a good used car” versus “check out the 2002-2004 Honda Civic (7th Generation, but not the 1st year) with less than 60,000 miles on it.” It’s not the perfect answer for everyone, and you may not even buy that car, but it gives you something to work with.

With that in mind, this is what I would tell my sister to invest. Not you, because I don’t know you. 🙂 She’s in her early 20s, recently out of college, working in her first professional job, and trying to balance renting in a big city, being young and trendy, paying back student loans, and oh yeah! – also retirement. She’s busy, doesn’t feel like reading the books I recommend just yet, but has some extra money now to put away for the future. So what does big bro tell her?

Get investing! You need to do this now so you can:

1. Reduce your risk in the long run
2. Get used to the ups and downs of the stock market (so you don’t just bail out later).

Option 1: No Money Down?
Set Up An Automatic Transfer at TIAA-CREF or T. Rowe Price

If she’s doesn’t have much to start with but is willing to set aside $50 every month, you can open an account at T. Rowe Price or TIAA-CREF with no initial investment minimum. If you’re in your 20s, look at the T. Rowe Price Retirement 2045 fund (TRRKX) or TIAA-CREF Lifecycle 2040 (TCLOX). Both seem to be solid companies with good customer service. They will get you “in the game”, are very low-maintenance, and will leave you with plenty of time to refine your tastes afterwards.

The good thing about starting low is you’ll get gradual exposure to the volatility of the market. In the beginning, it took me a while to get used to the fact that my balance could easily be much lower than it was yesterday. That can be very disconcerting for those only used to bank accounts.

Option 2: Think Long Term
Open Up An Account at Vanguard

I make no secret that I really like Vanguard. They have reliably low expenses, are fair and upfront about their fees and how they are compensated, and they are client-owned. Although they may have some higher fees in the beginning, I believe that over the long run their low expenses and indexing-expertise will result in superior performance. This is a company that I can see sticking with for the next 50+ years. So here’s one strategy using Vanguard for any account size:

Less Than $1000 – If she has less than $1,000, I’d tell her to just stick it in a high-yield savings account. Set up some automatic transfers from her checking account after each paycheck, and start building that up until you have…

$1000-$3,000 – Here, the only fund that’s available is the Vanguard STAR Fund (VGSTX). You can open up with $1,000 to start and add in $100 more at a time. It’s an okay fund, currently with 63% stocks, 25% bonds, and 12% cash. The point isn’t to get the perfect asset allocation right away, it’s to get get started. Again, see the two main goals above.

$3,000+ – When you get to this amount, exchange your shares into the Vanguard Target Retirement 2045 Fund (VTIVX). Since it’s in an IRA, there are no tax consequences or paperwork to worry about. See my post comparing Vanguard and T. Rowe Price Target funds for why I like it the best.

For all Vanguard IRAs, there is a fee of $10 a year for each fund account with a balance of less than $5,000 (waived with high overall balances). Use the $10 as a specific savings goal – “I will eat out one less time this week, saving $10”. Then write Vanguard a check for the $10 separately, so it’s not taken out of your Roth IRA balance. You want all that money compounding away! These fees are now waived with e-statements!

With all of these options, it is always a good idea to set up automatic transfers to avoid the “I forgot again because I was busy” factor. Also, feel free to call any of these companies on the phone. You should get a helpful human quickly, I always do with Vanguard.

Anyways, I hope these suggestions provide some good starting points for your own research. I sure hope my sister listens to me! As always, comments are welcome.

The prospect of losing your hard-earned money is scary. You know that if you invest with $1000 in stocks, in a year you could be left with either a huge gain or a huge loss. People (including me in the past) tend to look at the stock market like a slot machine:

This is good in that, yes, for the short-term the stock market is risky. Don’t put money you may need right away into stocks. However, when young people tell me that they are putting their Roth IRAs in a bank CD because they are afraid of the stock market, that is bad. Roth IRAs are long-term investments. We’re talking 30, 40, 60 years for some people! The way you should be looking at the stock market is this:

[Read more…]

Target-dated retirement mutual funds are getting more and more popular, offering instant diversification into stocks and bonds, as well as automatically shift to a more conservative blend as you near your target retirement date. An all in one fund! Whenever you see a finance article talk about the “best” of these mutual funds, invariably Vanguard and T. Rowe Price top the list. Recently, Kiplinger’s Personal Finance magazine named T. Rowe Price “the best Target fund available”. I’ve been meaning to do my own personal (and imperfect) comparison for a while now.

What makes a fund good?
First, why am I picking these two to compare? If you’ve read the books on my reading list, you’ll know that history and research has shown that the two most important factors that predict long-term performance are:

1. Asset class – What is the fund invested in? Large-cap domestic stocks? Short-term bonds?
2. Expense ratio – How much is the mutual fund company charging for its services?

Vanguard founder John Bogle sums it up well:
[Read more…]

Ever since exchange-traded funds became popular, many index fund investors have taken notice. Should we try to take advantage of the often-lower expense ratios? Can we overcome the commissions from trading? For example, both of these track the S&P 500 index:

IVV – iShares ETF, expense ratio of 0.10%
VFINX – Vanguard Mutual Fund, expense ratio of 0.18%

I just ran across this article at IndexUniverse.com, which compares the performance of mutual funds vs. ETFs for various indexes.

The general conclusion was that the main ETF for an index outperforms the average mutual fund tracking the same index. However, if you choose the Vanguard fund version, you will get very similar or sometimes even better performance due to their superior index management. [Read more…]

Back in May, legislation was passed that allows Traditional IRAs to be converted to Roth IRAs without any income restrictions in 2010. Previously, this conversion was only available to taxpayers with adjusted gross incomes of $100,000 or less, no matter if you’re married or single. You even get two years to pay the taxes on the conversion. One of the more detailed articles I’ve seen written about this change is this USA Today article.

Another side effect of this new law is that it opens up a gaping loophole so that allows anyone to contribute to an Roth IRA, albeit indirectly:
[Read more…]

Here is another snapshot of my retirement portfolio as of market close 10/7. As indicated in my previous snapshot, I simultaneously sold ~$10,000 of iShares S&P 500 Index ETF (IVV) and contributed $10,000 to my Solo 401k, which I used to buy Fidelity Total Stock Market Index Fund (FSTMX).

[Read more…]

It’s very hard to estimate exactly how much we’ll have to save for retirement, as that would require knowing how much our investments will grow in the future. Even if we try to do long-term trends, this can be difficult. But Richard Ferri, author of All About Asset Allocation and founder of Portfolio Solutions, LLC has done his best by layering risk premiums to estimate market returns. You can find the article for free online – ‘Portfolio Solutions 30-year Market Forecast’. An excerpt:

At the end of each year, we analyzed several economic and market risk factors including Federal Reserve forecasts, inflation forecasts derived from inflation protected securities, and the volatility of asset classes, styles, and categories. From that data, we developed estimates for longterm future returns.

Here are some of the results:
[Read more…]

Spent some time this weekend reading many of the articles at FundAdvice.com. The website is the educational arm of Merriman Capital Management, an investment management firm that is heavily into DFA funds. They promote no-load, asset-specific, low-cost funds (which often end up as index funds), and have a lot of interesting things to say on both active and passive investing.

I naturally gravitated towards the passive investing articles, and favorite article so far is ‘The ultimate buy-and-hold strategy’, which agrees with why I want to slice-and-dice my portfolio. I was also intrigued by their ideas for investors with small portfolios. Instead of picking an all-in-one fund or a cash fund until you have enough to invest, they advise you to pick the asset class with the most potential return but highest volatility (U.S. small-cap value to begin with) and build upwards.
[Read more…]